Fashion, a reflection of cultural heritage, takes us on a journey through time. Different eras are marked by distinct clothing styles, offering a glimpse into the lives of our ancestors. This pursuit of reflecting the past or predicting the future has always been a driving force for fashion brands. At the recently concluded 49th edition of Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai (March 13th-17th, 2024), a Russian brand, “Measure,” took the audience on a captivating exploration of Dagestan’s rich cultural heritage.
On the fourth day of the prestigious Lakme Fashion Week, the international designer from “Measure” stole the show with their innovative collection “TOI,” showcased at the iconic Jio World Convention Centre, Mumbai. This marked the debut of the renowned Russian Modest fashion brand at Lakme Fashion Week India. Held on the evening of March 16th at 8:30 pm, the event was a captivating blend of fashion and art, solidifying the brand’s legacy and enchanting fashion enthusiasts and art connoisseurs alike.
Founded in 2018 in Dagestan, Russia, “Measure” has embarked on an exceptional journey, experiencing remarkable growth and progress since its inception. The brand’s philosophy revolves around finding a harmonious balance between nature and human creation, the historical and the contemporary, and the physical and the spiritual.
Significantly, this prominent Russian fashion brand also participated in the recent Moscow Fashion Week. Hailing from Dagestan, Russia, “Measure’s” essence lies in reinterpreting the traditions of Muslim attire. Their designs seamlessly blend the natural with the man-made, the past with the present, and the earthly with the spiritual. These elements are intricately woven into the fabric of the brand’s designs, reflecting a depth and texture that is both unique and captivating.
Designer Zainab Saidulaeva’s latest collection, “TOI,” is a bold artistic venture inspired by the rich tapestry of Dagestani wedding traditions. This innovative collection seamlessly integrates elements of customary practices, ceremonial gifts, and historical garments into a modern design narrative. Through meticulous layering and intricate texture, Saidulaeva’s designs embody “Measure’s” unique vision, solidifying its position as a prominent voice in the fashion industry.
Drawing inspiration from the region’s intricate customs and traditional attire, the collection featured alluring multi-layered ensembles adorned in shades of black and various tones of white. Employing silk in a myriad of textures and variations, the designs captured the essence of timeless elegance and paid homage to the cultural heritage of the Russian province.
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, clothing played a pivotal role in the daily lives of Dagestani citizens, reflecting their diverse cultural heritage and evolving urban landscape. As cities became increasingly multi-ethnic, the clothing of urban residents displayed a fascinating blend of traditional and multicultural influences.
The Soviet era (1922-1991) brought about profound transformations in Dagestani clothing traditions. The widespread availability of factory-made garments and evolving societal norms significantly impacted fashion choices. This shift, coupled with changing lifestyles and rising living standards, led to the gradual disappearance of traditional attire, which persisted mainly among older generations, women, and those involved in animal husbandry. Despite these changes, markers of marital status and ethical guidelines in dress endured, particularly among girls. Interestingly, traditional knitted and sheepskin garments exhibited remarkable resilience amidst evolving fashion trends, especially among youth in urban areas.
Following the dissolution of the USSR and the easing of travel restrictions, Dagestanis increasingly ventured abroad, leading to the adoption of new clothing styles and trends. Concurrently, the resurgence of Islam in post-Soviet society exerted a notable influence on clothing choices, with many women embracing attire adhering to Islamic dress codes. In recent decades, a growing segment of Dagestani women has embraced Islamic women’s clothing, reflecting shifting social dynamics and religious sentiments in the region.
Lakme Fashion Week 2024 witnessed a remarkable display of cultural heritage through the “TOI” collection by “Measure.” The brand’s innovative designs not only celebrated the rich traditions of Dagestan but also offered a glimpse into the evolving fashion landscape of the region.
