Between July 1st and 4th, 2024, Berlin’s streets crackled with the electric energy of Berlin Fashion Week. This biannual event secured the city’s place in a world fashion powerhouse, parading established icons and the next generation of exciting voices. Beyond the iconic Brandenburg Gate, one stepped into a whirlwind of mesmerizing runway shows, intimate presentations, and industry gatherings that pulsated with creative energy.
Berlin Fashion Week—Commitment to a Sustainable Future
One of the most influential changes that the BFW introduces this year is its adaptation of the demanding Copenhagen Fashion Week sustainability criteria. This change reflects the movement of the entire world towards a more environmentally-friendly way of fashion consumption. From responsibly sourced materials such as organic cotton and recycled synthetics to innovative upcycling techniques and responsible production methods, sustainability was not a trend—it was a base on which so many collections stood.
This commitment could be felt even within the sacred walls of the “Berlin Salon,” a platform of established designers who have clearly warmed up to sustainability. Among them is Karen Jessen, well-known for creating timeless, elegant pieces from environmentally friendly materials, who unveiled her latest collection in the beautifully appointed Feuerle Collection space—a haven for contemporary art within the lively streets of Kreuzberg. Guests stepped inside to find Jessen’s signature silhouettes – sharp blazers, flowing dresses – reimagined in sumptuous, environmentally responsible fabrics playing witness to the talent of this designer in marrying style with sustainability
A Launchpad for Rising Stars
BFW has always been an advocate for young designers, and this year was no exception. It was through the “Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week” platform that this rather varied selection of emerging talents was furnished with a much needed launchpad, each with their story to tell through the clothes. New kid on the block Avenir did amaze with its bold take on tailoring; bold cuts and innovative textiles really formed the heart of their collection, further pushing the very boundaries of conventional garment construction. Their show, held within the renovated industrial warehouse in Mitte, Berlin, was a feast of lights and emotion, with dramatic lighting that brought out all the intricate details of every piece. The energy almost pulsed to the pounding strides of the models cat walking in outfits that were manifestos for bold individuality.
Showstopping Spectacles: Runway Highlights
The week was very much packed with show-stopping presentations of trendy casual wear to haute couture after the showcases. A closer look at some of those mentioned below that captured the essence of BFW 2024 includes:
- William Fan: This Berlin-based designer, known for his avant-garde creations, had a collection that defied categorization. Held in a former East German cinema, it was a theatrical display. Dramatic silhouettes that defied gravity were worn on the models, some resembling space suits of the future, and others more ethereal sculptures. Irrescent fabrics and metallic finishes seemed to provide some sort of otherworldly sheen to the collection. Headwear became integrated into the ensemble, with elaborate geometric structures crowning the models’ heads. William Fan provided a feast for the eyes—a real treat for the soul, to believe in the power of fashion to erase the line between art and dress.
- Rianna + Nina: The design duo with Rianna Capri and Nina Pawlowska presented a very relatable collection to people all over the world. This show in the sun-kissed courtyard of Prenzlauer Berg was really an homage to diversity and inclusion. Their garments were kaleidoscope color against the canvas of whitewashed brick walls with prints inspired by traditional African textiles. Silhouettes are comfortable and stylish, ranging from a wide scope of body types to ethnicities. Rianna + Nina’s show was like a breath of fresh air—really bringing the notion back that fashion ought to include and empower everyone.
- Malaika Raiss: This young star, of Moroccan origin, came with a collection inspired by her origins. The show took place in a historical dance hall in Charlottenburg and therefore remained an homage to timeless elegance reinterpreted. Luxuriant fabrics—the likes of silks and satins—streamed down the models’ bodies, draping intricate embroidery reminiscent of traditional Moroccan craftsmanship. The color palette was warm and inviting and consisted of earthy tones with jewel-toned accents reflective of Raiss’s rich heritage. Then came the bridal gown, all in white and delicately accented by intricate gold embroidery, endlessly applauded by an audience enchanted by its beauty. Malaika Raiss reminded us that, in a pointed way, one’s cultural heritage might be tapped richly to create stunning and sophisticated design.
To be continued…
