On Saturday 16th September Oxford Fashion Studio launched 25 collections by designers from 14 countries around the world strengthening London’s leading position as the best place in the world for design talent. The collections featured at the London Fashion Week showcased wearable art jackets with artisan-crafted fibre panels by SuKaz, equestrian empowerment by all female team NH ALRabiah from Kuwait and indigenous representation by OOROME from Mexico. BERTH from Hong Kong returned to Devonshire Square taking her trademark style to a new level of finish. Vino Supraja from India channelled folk art from Therukoothu with a show featuring a performance by Vaanmadhi Jagan.
Body positive brands Renee Cafaro Atelier and Renee’Larouge brought elegance and glamour for all sizes. Mythology, folklore, storytelling and escapism permeated the mood of the season as seen through collections by Why Mary, Narmin Tello, RADADA and AngElixs Designs.
Accessories were well represented including colourful footwear by Sarah Maier, Norwegian outerwear by Vinter and silicone on spectacular outfits by Viktoria Marchev. Collections with pop colours continued with Dijo Clothing and Francini_K but in contrast Dea the Label and Rosie Billington channelled darker tones with exquisite finishing. Myriam de Moreno launched beautiful gowns while Xantha brought extraordinary structure and Nuno Abelho collection showed off exceptional fabrics cut to perfection.
AnnaFrancesca Revolution from Panama headlined the day of shows with a surreal spectacle that saw models emerging and coming to life on the runway. It was a show unlike any that had taken place at Devonshire Square before, transporting guests into another world.
“The creativity and dynamism demonstrated by the designers on the Emerge schedule this season, from 14 countries around the world, underlines London’s place as the best place in the world for emerging brands.” says Oxford Fashion Studio Runway Director, Tiffany Saunders.
- Renee Cafaro Atelier
The Love Parade Collection | USA
Renee Cafaro Atelier creates haute couture exclusively for bigger bodies. Cafaro strives to bring luxury and opulence to plus size clients while championing ethical, local and fair wage business practices. Their designs have been seen on ITV’s Alison Hammond, RuPaul’s Drag Race UK, BAFTAs red carpet, CBS Good Morning America, iHeartRadio Breakfast Club, Bravo’s Watch What Happens Live, and the 2023 Oscars. The Love Parade Collection SS24 is Carnaby Street meets Coachella. A vibrant collection that combines the mod silhouettes of the swinging 1960’s with the frivolity, fringe and neon colours of modern festival wear.
- OOROME
Meine Liebe | Mexico
OOROME blends heritage and modernity, exploring the connection between the past and present. Inspired by multicultural influences, OOROME creates new synergies through designs that honour family, culture, and traditions. Collaborating with indigenous communities the designs draw from Mexican traditional garments and the fusion of European and Mexican methods of garment making, embracing sustainable practices and creating waste-minimising silhouettes. OOROME collaborates with Xoxot to preserve the Campeche jungle by crafting accessories from fallen trees and branches. The Meine Liebe collection pays homage to the timeless style of the designer’s late grandmother. As an art historian her legacy encompasses decades of travel, German heritage and a deep appreciation for ancient and modern beauty. The resulting blend is a unique, elegant and harmonious style. The colour palette draws inspiration from a vase acquired in Hong Kong, featuring rich blue-greens, vibrant golden hues, and hints of reflected purple. This collection is the designer’s unsent letter to her grandmother, honouring her memory.
- VINTER
Original Vinter Coat | Norway
Vinter is a Norwegian-American premium coat brand established in 2013. Traditional craftsmanship and innovative designs are Vinter’s values as reflected by the Original Vinter Coat, made with premium wool blends and authentic Norwegian shearling. Vinter coats specialise in adaptability featuring luxurious mitten pockets, a detachable scarf and a chest warmer. The breasted button system provides comfort and style while providing adaptation to changing weather, occasions and moods.
- Renee’Larouge
Breakfast at Tiffany’s | USA
Renee’ Larouge is a luxury plus size womenswear clothing brand offering ready to wear and custom pieces. The Breakfast at Tiffany’s collection embodies sophistication and femininity. The garments are structured but provide movement and flexibility. The base colours feature shades of purple with contrasting colours of green, black, white, fuchsia, and pink.
- Sarah Maier
Colourful Collection 2023 | Portugal
Cláudia Madaleno created the Sarah Maier footwear brand in 2020. The Portuguese designer was inspired by her travels. Their shoes are 100% leather and crafted by artisans using ecological techniques and raw materials. Sarah Maier’s most recent collection, the Colourful Collection 2023, features a wide range of colours and materials, promoting happiness and comfort. The shoes are manufactured in Italy.
- Rhyan & Rhyse
SS24 | USA
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In 2021 Oxford Fashion Studio launched Emerge, a platform specifically designed for smaller teams to launch during fashion week: industry-connected, resource-friendly and exceptional production quality. For SS24 Emerge is supporting 25 brands from 14 countries including Latvia, Panama, India, Kuwait, Mexico, Norway, Luxembourg, Colombia, Portugal, Australia, Hong Kong, Canada, the UK and the USA. All 25 brands launched their collections at Devonshire Square on Saturday 16th September 2023 during London Fashion Week. “This is my first time showing at any fashion week. They’ve always been right there to be on hand, they’re so kind and caring. They’re such a great team. I have barely had to lift a finger, which is really nice. It’s great to have because you are only as good as the team around you.” – Kelsey Saitch, Designer for Kelse, London
