Over coat Fall/Winter 2024 Collection
Ryuhei Oomaru has established a unique position in the fashion industry that goes beyond traditional boundaries. His brand, OVERCOAT, is a space where tradition and innovation interwoven. Since its inception in 2015, OVERCOAT has worked at creating narratives, with each stitch representing a word and each garment telling a story. Oomaru’s journey, mentored by Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons, has imbued him with a spirit of defiance, challenging conventional norms—a philosophy that vibrates through every aspect of OVERCOAT. Ryuhei finds new shapes and forms in everyday life, dissects them, and experiments with patterns. His Fall/Winter 2024 collection is a vivid exploration of form, drawing inspiration from the simplicity of an apple peel, which is transformed into shapes like cubes, and tubes, which “form the simplest of patterns but offer infinite options and possibilities,” according to him.
This collection showcases Oomaru’s talent for transforming everyday observations into avant-garde designs. It is presented in two segments: art pieces that challenge traditional structures and a curated selection of ready-to-wear (RTW) looks, captured by Richard Kern. The art pieces boldly challenge conventional fashion norms. With the expertise of a patternmaker, they blend refined elegance with rugged, gritty textures, manifesting Ryuhei Oomaru’s view of fashion as an experiential art form. This strategy is a deliberate defiance of traditional, monochromatic sartorial standards, boldly juxtaposing sleek designs against coarse elements. The collection defies conventional shape and silhouette expectations with its unexpected forms—deformed tubes, cubes, and dolman sleeves— prompting a new appreciation for the unconventional beauty in these innovative structures. The RTW collection builds on this foundation with more pragmatism, merging some of OVERCOAT’s signatures – such as an adaptable pleated shoulder detail that expands and contracts to adjust to the wearer shoulder width and slope – with a diverse array of textures and hues, from abstract bouclé, overdyed prints, artificial high-gloss nylon, to tactile cow leather, alongside digital knits and smooth wool sweaters, all in colors like camel, green, lemon, and eventide blue. Central to this collection is the collaboration with artist Peter Miles through the “WE BUY GOLD” project, which adds a layer of narrative depth and cultural commentary. As Ryuhei Oomaru continues to bridge the gap between his heritage and his present, artistry, and apparel, he solidifies his role as a key figure in New York fashion. His creations are meant to be experienced, not just worn, each piece a testament to a career that challenges conventions and celebrates individuality. The Fall/Winter 2024 collection from OVERCOAT is a manifesto, a declaration of freedom in a tradition-bound world. It is Ryuhei Oomaru’s invitation to join him on a journey of exploration, innovation, and the seamless integration of art and life.
About: Ryuhei Oomaru
Ryuhei Oomaru has woven a narrative of meticulous craftsmanship and innovative design since the inception of OVERCOAT in 2015 in New York City. With a foundation laid at the Bunka Fashion College in Japan, Oomaru honed his craft under the tutelage of Rei Kawakubo designing the main collection at Comme des Garçons before venturing to the United States in 2007. His trajectory through the fashion industry includes a pivotal role as head tailor at Donna Karan and the establishment of Oomaru Seisakusho 2, a beacon of product development and creative consultation for luxury New York brands. This blend of experiences has equipped Oomaru with a unique perspective on garment construction, evident in OVERCOAT’s philosophy of reinterpreting Western attire through a distinctive lens.
OVERCOAT stands as a testament to Oomaru’s dedication to merging conceptual artistry with functional wearability. The brand’s collections, celebrated for their conceptual outerwear, are a dialogue between the precision of pattern making and the fluidity of everyday life. Oomaru’s designs—ranging from the adaptive structures of gussets and pleats to the innovative cape shoulder silhouette—challenge and redefine the boundaries of traditional tailoring. His choice of materials, including Japanese wools and unconventional awning canvas, further narrates his journey between Tokyo and New York, crafting garments that are as much a piece of the city’s fabric as they are of the wearer’s identity. Collaborations with artists such as Peter Miles, Jack Webb, Rirkrit Tiravanija, and Richard Kern underscore Oomaru’s interdisciplinary approach, blending fashion with visual and conceptual art. These partnerships, alongside his use of everyday objects as design inspirations, reveal a designer who sees beyond the surface, finding beauty in the mundane and translating it into wearable art.
His works, whether they be tapestries of the Statue of Liberty or coats crafted from awning canvas, invite wearers to experience New York in a tactile, intimate manner, embodying the city’s eclectic spirit. Ryuhei Oomaru’s Overcoat is a narrative of exploration, innovation, and the seamless integration of art and life. As Oomaru continues to build bridges between his heritage and his present, between artistry and apparel, he cements his status as a pivotal figure in New York fashion. His garments are not just to be worn; they are to be experienced, each stitch a testament to a career that defies convention and celebrates individuality. Over coat is a symbol of a global dialogue, one that Ryuhei Oomaru articulates with every piece he creates.
OVERCOAT FW24 Art Pieces and Gallery Installation by Ian Bartlett
