Classic Chikankari for the Catwalk
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Classic Chikankari for the Catwalk

The glamour and beauty of the eternally loved Chikankari is something every woman longs for in her wardrobe. In India, no label can showcase it better than the House of Kotwara by Sama, Meera and Muzaffar Ali, as the designers did at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2020. The elegance and traditional style of Awadh’s sartorial splendour was evident in the classic silhouettes and intricate crafts. The latest collection called “Baharaan” for the coming season, was a stylish, fashionable offering as the designing trio brought elegant jackets, scintillating dresses, eye-catching jumpsuits along with ethnic wear in cotton and linen that were splashed with Kotwara’s memorable Chikankari classic embellishments. The colour story was visually arresting, as shades of olive, pink, ivory, and the eternal favourites black and white were highlighted with striking splashes of floral Chikan work in contrasting hues. To add more excitement to the ensembles, the designers brought in appliqués and kaamdani work. Dividing the show in two distinct segments of white and black the display opened with the pristine white line and hints of pastels. The defining silhouette for the pants was either cropped, flared or palazzos some with scalloped hemlines. Detailing of course, came in the form of the lovely Chikankari work with Gotta Patti at times replacing the conventional dupattas. The black segment was ideal for after dark soirées when a sharara, jumpsuit and another version as an off shoulder one appeared on the catwalk. A solo kurta with pink edging gave a pop of colour to the black line. Western wear was daring with playsuits, and jumpsuits vying for attention, while the midi dresses with shirt-tail hemlines and drawstring waists were ideal for the rising mercury. The skinny pants with bralettes and soft coats were a sexy daring addition to the show along with a couple of shorts with a sexy strappy top. At times the multicoloured embroidery added a fun element to the otherwise very sophisticated and regal look of the ensembles. To end the show, it had to be the very beautiful and regal Dia Mirza, who glided on the ramp in a grey lehenga with superb white and gold embellishments that had appliquéd, gotta, sequins and pearl work. This was worn with a white fully encrusted corset. The fabric was specially created in Banaras. The innovation for the trio was a Gotta Patti border as a dupatta. When it comes to evening wear that is lovingly created by the expert crafts women of Kotwara, fashionistas will adore the timeless Chikankari collection called “Baharaan” visualised by Sama, Meera and Muzaffar Ali from the House of Kotwara.  Classic Chikankari for the Catwalk

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The Beauty of Sustainable Fashion
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The Beauty of Sustainable Fashion

The name Ashdeen Lilaowala is renowned as a textile designer who creates beautiful paintings with a thread and needle. A Master at presenting the Parsi Gara embroidery in all its colourful and creative glory, Ashdeen’s collection “Memories on Cloth” at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2020 was not only an exquisite vision of embroidered beauty but excellent craftsmanship amalgamated with contemporary style. With 150 craftsmen Ashdeen’s studio in New Delhi is the hub for the gorgeous embroidery that he is known for. The silhouettes were kept simple and elegant allowing the motifs to do all the talking. The hand embroidery featured the beauty of flora and fauna, which has been the distinct characteristic of the Parsi Gara craft. The popular motifs of bows, roosters, birds and butterflies came alive on the fabrics as they flitted over the garments. Ashdeen added another traditional embellishment, which is the lace that was popular, as an edging for the sacred undergarment the ‘sudreh’ worn by the Parsis. The beauty of this lace was seen on the ensembles, which brought to the forefront, the message of celebrating sustainable development goals by combining craft with culture. An alluring, one-shoulder blouse covered in self-hued sequins was contrastingly teamed with a voluminous lehenga, that featured hand embroidered motifs like the bird of paradise, roosters and butterflies. The look was completed with a black dupatta placed neatly around the neck and tied at the back. Ashdeen Lilaowala’s “Memories on Cloth” was a timeless collection that will be cherished by connoisseurs of beauty and craft through times immemorial. The House of Three that stands for Mind, Body and Soul has followed a philosophy of western fashion with an Indian Soul that was brought to Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2020. The brand is the brainchild of Sunak Sen Barat and Anu Shyamsunder, both graduates of National Institute of Fashion Technology, Delhi. Their vision was to present a marriage of contrasts to the contemporary Indian and that is just what their collection “Kumarikandam” was all about. The brand brought on the ramp the glorious textiles of two states – West Bengal and Tamilnadu and displayed the expert weaves of three fabulous Master Weavers – Rajib Debnath from West Bengal, Satya from Kanchipuram and Santaanam from Kumbakoram, Tamilnadu. Rajib Debnath’s label Tantajo that supports the livelihood of 450 families of master weavers, dyers and spinners is known for his superfine Bengal cotton, Jamdaani muslin that was used by the House of Three in 100 to 300 counts and reinvented with indigo and yarn dyes. The muslin came in printed Khadi versions or some with Jamdaani, jacquard weaves and check patterns. Muslin was also woven in different types of checks and at times printed for added interest. The weaves from Tamilnadu revolved around the luxurious silk Kanjivaram fabrics, which are the treasured textiles of the state. They were woven into geometric, graphic, checks and stripes and then appliquéd with jamdaani motifs. Temple borders Kolum and Alpona motifs were blended with prints and embroidery creating contrasting yet common elements. A gorgeous ivory, midi skirt with appliqué and fringe details having scalloped lace trim at the hemline, adorned with minimal sequin work was styled with an ivory Kanjeevaram saree. A secondary line of fabrics like linen and viscose jersey appeared to add a variety to the creations. The colour story opted, was pastels with inspirations from the ocean, for blue, aqua, yellow, orange and red. While the Kanjivarams were predominantly in a black and white combo with bursts of colour blocking, the muslin collection had rainbow hues for the embellishments. In the 22 pieces collection, the label added a couple of men’s wear that comprised a mulmul shirt with a Khadi day suit, mulmul kurta, Khadi double-breasted bundi with smoking jacket lapels, wide-leg double pleated pants and churidars. Social activist and multi-lingual cine star, Siddharth walked the ramp for the label in a peach kurta with playful, checked sleeves teamed with a black and white Kanjivaram Nehru jacket featuring mustard detailing on the flap pockets. The look was completed with a scarf jauntily wrapped around the neck. The pert and pretty actress and musician, Saba Azad strutted down the runway in a white Jamdaani mini with a ruffled bib interest on the bodice. The “Kumarikandam” collection for Summer/Resort 2020 from the House of Three was all about fashion that amalgamated the best from the West with the traditions and heritage of India’s culture that will definitely thrill fashion followers. The Beauty of sustainable fashion

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We Are Family’ fashion fantasy
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We Are Family’ fashion fantasy

A Manish Arora collection and show is never a run-of-the-mill presentation, so it was of little wonder that at The Atelier during Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2020 it was a mind-blowing extravaganza by the “Master of Magnificent Fashion” that ended Day One. “We Are Family” celebrated ‘Life is Beautiful’ a grand performance that was a fashion presentation with the Parisian Cabaret atmosphere. It was truly a very bold, daring showcase that defied norms and brought the dreamers to centre stage. To the tune of some surreal music, the mood was set for fashion and dramatic excitement. The eight gracefully moving models on pedestals were dressed in typical extreme creations by Manish. Unbelievably glamorous gowns, leggings, prints, outlandish head gear and makeup along with dramatic footwear, the visual impact on the audience as they moved around was electrifying. The installations were just perfect and revealed the amazing visual drama that only Manish can create. Unveiling his borderless, gender neutral, inclusive chorus of ensembles that assembled the great energies of the LGBTQAI+ performers, club kids and beauty monsters from around the globe, the visual result was a memorable, arresting show. Commenting on the showcase, designer Manish Arora said, “Showcased in a magnanimous setting, my presentation “we are family” was a celebration of a stage called life and genderless love and the LGBTQIA+ community that I’m so proud and passionate about. I’m extremely pleased to see my vision so perfectly executed in a larger than life depiction of colour, boldness and of course fashion.” Creating drama that was an amazing ever-lasting memory, Manish brought the stark contrast of transparent and opaque fabrics as the basis of his vision. Colours were numerous in variety as they glowed with iridescent beauty that moved seamlessly from the vibrant to the vivid. When it came to silhouettes, Manish is the ultimate adventurer who brought together an amazing mélange and fusion of street wear that was edgy with his characteristic fashion sensibilities but with hints of haute couture in all its sophisticated glory. The traditional crafts and techniques were brought to the forefront with great creative artistry and adapted to the contemporary ethos of fashion. Manish Arora’s “We are Family” brought a perfect end to Day One with glitz, glamour and lots of fashion creativity.

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