Bombay at Permit & Co.- Bombay’s Iconic Permit Rooms And Drinking Subculture
Bombay at Permit & Co.: Lower Parel revelled in the charm of the colonial era for eight successful years at Gymkhana 91. Come November 25, the space paves the way to an all-new era inspired by Permit Rooms with Permit & Co., a casual dining bar by restauranteurs and co-founder duo Aditya Vijay Hegde & Adesh Vijay Hegde. The spirit of Mumbai flashes back to meet the nostalgia of Bombay at Permit & Co. whose story begins in the 60s—when Bombay came of the drinking age and Prohibition was history. The charm of Bombay’s iconic permit rooms stood tall & endured. With permits sorted, the Co. expands into a Collective to witness company, collaboration, connection and a communion of Bombay’s evocative beginnings swinging all the way into the late 90’s. This all-new era has been conceptualised by cofounders Aditya & Adesh Hegde, along with Laksh Fomra of Holy Duck, to evoke a laid-back, friendly feel of those infamous establishments blended with a focus on nostalgic food and drink reimagined. At the entrance, bold art works and curios inspired by the 80s and 90s era welcomes guests into its embrace. The 120-seater main dining room & bar is done up with an aesthetic minimal appeal that combines wooden fixtures with different textures, and clean styles including the use of subway tiles and retro-grade grouting. The bar wears a sleek retro charm in deep yellow lighting, which bathes the glass surfaces in a warm, golden hue, adding depth to the space. One flight up, fun awaits in a 30-seater space that resembles Bombay’s official permit room setting for the modern world. Wooden furniture, pastel curtains, dim lighting, and cosy ambiance are designed to create a din we love and bridges the gap between eras – thus encouraging lively social exchanges, discussions, and banter. Music sets the tone with throwback tunes, gradually picking up pace into the night. “There is a certain timelessness and charm that always draws us back to the stories of Permit Rooms because the best experiences are often created at spaces where you can come as you are, be yourself, and feel a sense of familiarity – with the food, the cocktails, the service, the staff, and the space. That to me personally has always been the essence of hospitality, and with Permit & Co. we create just that – an experience that transports you back into a bubble of familiarity, nonchalance, and fond memories.” Aditya Hegde, Cofounder, Permit & Co. “The essence of Permit & Co. runs deep in its food & drink program. For the cocktails, we’ve drawn inspiration from flavours we’ve all grown up with—nostalgic, familiar tastes that we have instant connections with, mixed with a selection of spirits and in-house sodas. With food, we wanted to keep it simple but offer a very rich menu that satiates the Indian appetite. All along the way we’ve been careful not to try and reinvent the wheel but just reimagine it for today’s elevated palate. Like the Irani cafes, permit rooms also are part of the quintessential taste of Bombay. Permit & Co celebrates that eclectic drinking, dining and snacking culture.” Adesh Hegde, Cofounder, Permit & Co. License To Indulge The menu feeds comfort cravings in every portion across all its sections. Time Pass lets guests savour the likes of Imli Choka with Rice Crisps and all time hit Schezuan Chakli, while Chakna dishes out Chinese Bhel with a Manchurian pancake. Hummus gets a South Indian touch in Madrasi Channa Hummus served with khichya papad. Stand-out small plate options include Phodni Burrata with tomato pachadi and sour dough, Masala Croissant slathered with Masala Bhaji and topped with Parmesan, a classic Nizaami Haleem with Wonton crackers. The Jackfruit 65 is a vegetarian take on the classic Chicken 65, tempered with curry leaves. Main course elevates flavours and classics such as Thecha-powered Mac & Cheese and Classic Permit Room Egg Curry with layered egg, gooey egg yolk in a homestyle curry served with rice. House special includes Mangalorean Ghee Roast Chicken with Neer Dosa. This happy stumble down Bombay’s memory lane ends on a sweet note. Iyengar pays homage to the bakery with a rava cake topped with orange crème patisserie and caramelised milk cake. Ramesh Aur Suresh combines 5-star on a bread pudding with salted caramel. There’s also an in-house Chocolate Fudge inspired from Lonavala, a decadent and true-blue classic Caramel Custard, and Tiramisu in a Tiffin to choose from. License To Drink The mixology program led by Indian mixologists Rahul Raghav & Karl Fernandes, brought their expertise together to create creative, heady cocktails brimming with local flavours and inspirations. Think Campa Cola, Pallonji, Bombay juice centers, Chowpatty chaat, 80’s dark Nescafe, theater caramel popcorn, and even the seldom forgotten Mangola. Permit & Co.la gets a blend of dark and white rum topped with an in-house cola, Batliwaala rekindles love for Pallonji and pairs gin with house raspberry soda. Clarified sitaphal juice finds the company of vodka in Sobo Snob, while Sab Ka Picante ropes in tequila with passionfruit and a bite of jalapeno nachos. Smuggle My Negroni gives the stiff drink a surprising but subtle twist of strawberry with a coconut fatwash. While the cocktail program employs modern techniques such as sousvide, fat-washing and clarification; it’s presentation and tasting notes are rather simplistic and refined to serve justice to its timeless inspirations. “Permit & Co. is rooted in the iconic culture of Bombay’s OG Permit Rooms – designed to be a space that feels like a conversation between the past and the present – where the stories of yesteryear can sit comfortably alongside the energy of the here and now. It’s refreshingly unpretentious with cheeky nods to the 80’s & 90’s brought together in a delightful manner. Largely credited to be the beginning of the licensed drinking culture in India, Permit & Co. is your passage into a time when Bombay was Bombay and drinks came with a thappa,” Laksh Fomra, Holy Duck, a creative
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